How to Adjust a Snaffle Bridle

If your bridle is correctly sized for your horse, adjusted properly and kept clean and conditioned, it will function properly as an aid to your riding. It will also be comfortable for your horse to wear next to the sensitive areas of his head.

Here are some steps for adjusting a snaffle bridle on your horse. If you would like help determining the size bridle or bit your horse requires, see our articles How to Measure for a Bridle and How to Measure for a Bit.

Parts of a Bridle


1. Adjust the cheek pieces and bit height.

With the bridle on your horse’s head and the reins looped over his neck, as shown in the photo, adjust the cheek pieces to achieve the proper bit height. In general, with the cheek pieces appropriately buckled and the bit correctly sized, you should see one to two soft wrinkles appearing at the corners of your horse’s lips as a starting point for adjusting the bit height. (For a Pelham or Kimberwicke bit, you’ll only want to see one soft wrinkle at the corner of the lips.)


2. Check the browband.

The browband should rest lightly across your horse’s forehead, just about 1⁄2 to 1 inch below the front of his ears. Be sure the browband is long enough so that it doesn’t pull the crownpiece into the back of your horse’s ears. Conversely, if it sticks out, forms a gap in front of the horse’s forehead or wiggles when the horse moves, then the browband is too long.

Tip: Many styles of browbands are available separately. You can swap out your browband any time you’d like a new look for your bridle, or if your horse’s bridle fits but you’d like another size browband.


3. Adjust the noseband.

The placement and fit of the noseband varies very slightly depending on the type used. A standard noseband or caveson should sit level at a point about 1⁄2 to 1 inch below the horse’s cheekbone. As a general guideline, you can use one finger’s width to measure the space from the bottom of the cheekbone to the top of the noseband.


One finger’s width between the end of the horse’s cheekbone and the noseband.

Some nosebands come with integrated hangers that adjust on both sides of the horse’s face. Buckle the hangers by the horse’s cheeks on this type of noseband in the same hole on each side.

If positioned correctly, the noseband will not interfere with the movement of the bit rings, pinch the lips or press on the soft tissue of the horse’s nose in such a way as to hamper the horse’s breathing. You should be able to place a finger inside the noseband underneath the jaw, and yet it should be fastened snugly enough to prevent flapping during riding.


One finger inserted into noseband to check that it isn’t buckled too tightly.

Flash Noseband: The caveson part of the noseband should sit just under the cheek- bones without pressing on them. The flash attachment will then rest on the nasal bone and will not press on the soft tissue of the horse’s nose. The flash should stretch comfortably down over the horse’s jaws in front of the bit. Many people position the flash so that the buckle rests near the loop attachment for the flash rather than on the soft tissue near the lips. The keeper for the flash can be positioned so that it does not cause discomfort on the soft tissue as well.


Flash attachment sits on nasal bone. Flash not too tight and placed in front of bit but not where it can compress the nostrils. Flash keepers positioned so as not to pinch horse’s lips.

Jawband or Crank Noseband: The caveson part of the noseband should sit just under the cheekbones without pressing on them. The buckle of this type of noseband is padded and designed to be tightened as needed by the requirements of the horse. The buckling system allows tightening with even pressure on both sides of the noseband. If the jawband has a flash attached, then it should be fastened as described for a flash noseband.

Figure 8 Noseband: The straps of this type of noseband need to be adjusted properly to be effective and to avoid hampering the horse’s breathing. The padded disk should rest on the nasal bone so that the straps cross over this bone. The lower strap stretches down over the horse’s jaw in front of the bit.

The upper strap may be positioned just under the cheekbones or on top of the cheekbones, depending on both the type of Figure 8 used and rider preference. Generally, if the straps of the Figure 8 attach to metal rings, many riders position the rings on top of the cheekbones so that this hardware does not press against the end of the horse’s cheekbone.


Metal rings are positioned on top of the cheekbones. If positioned at the end of the cheekbone, the metal ring might press uncomfortably against it.

If the Figure 8 does not use metal rings, but rather has adjustable leather slides, many riders position the upper strap just under the horse’s cheekbone.


A Figure 8 noseband that does not have metal rings can be adjusted below the cheekbones.

Drop Noseband: The nosepiece of this type of noseband should sit on the bony part of the nose, about four finger’s width above the nostrils. The rings attached to the chin strap portions of the noseband should not come in contact with the bit. The chin strap should stretch down in front of the bit and be buckled under the jaw only snug enough that you can slip two fingers between it and the jaw bones. Take special care to be sure this type of noseband won’t affect the horse’s breathing after it is buckled into place.

Note: Nosebands function differently and produce varied results on horses. Always consult a trainer or a knowledgeable friend for help adjusting the noseband if you have questions about the way a particular style of noseband could influence your horse.


4. Adjust the throatlatch.

Buckle the throatlatch so that you can fit four fingers between it and the underside of jaw—but not more. The throatlatch is intended to keep the bridle in place if the need arises during a ride. If it is adjusted too loosely, the throatlatch cannot perform its function if needed. If it is buckled too tightly, it can hamper the horse’s breathing. Some competitive riders prefer to have a slightly shorter throatlatch adjustment than the four-finger rule provides.


Adjusting the throat latch.


5. Adjust curb chain if necessary.

If you’re using a bit with a curb chain, adjust the curb chain and untwist any kinks in the chain so that it will lie flat against the horse’s chin when the bit moves. As a general guideline, hook the chain at a length that allows you to put two fingers between the chain and your horse’s chin. This guideline will have to be adjusted according to your horse’s needs. Some horses require a very loose curb chain setting, while others need a more snug adjustment.


More on Cheek Pieces and Bit Height

All horses are different; some horses prefer a higher or lower setting for their bits. When following the cheek piece adjustment guidelines in this article, be sure to take into account your horse’s preferences. Observe your horse’s behavior and his response to the bit and make adjustments accordingly.

Ideally, if your crownpiece and cheek pieces together are appropriately sized, the buckles of each cheek piece will be located about 1 to 1 1⁄2 inches above your horse’s eye level, and you’ll be able to use the same holes on both sides of your horse’s face so that the buckles are positioned evenly. You’ll also ideally have at least one hole left above the buckles in case the leather stretches over time and you need to shorten the cheek pieces or raise the bit later.

If the crownpiece and/or cheek pieces are too long for your horse, you may not be able to adjust the height of the bit in your horse’s mouth correctly. It could hang too low in your horse’s mouth, clank against his teeth, and become an ineffective riding aid. Some horses may require a horse size bridle with cob size cheek pieces to get a good fit. If the crownpiece and cheek pieces are too short, the bit could pull too high in the horse’s mouth, which may cause discomfort or behavioral issues.

Tip: If you change the bit later on, differently sized bit rings may require an adjustment of the cheek pieces.

Reins for English Riding Disciplines


Reins come in a variety of types to suit individual rider preferences, to meet the needs and/or rules of the rider’s discipline and to coordinate with a bridle. Most bridles come with reins that are appropriately styled to match the look and purpose of the bridle. However, reins are easily swapped if a rider wishes to use a different type, width or length. Reins should also be replaced if signs of wear or deterioration become evident.

Types of English reins include:
• Laced reins, traditional on hunter bridles, provide textural grip and classic styling.
• Fancy-stitched reins have “fronts,” a section of smooth leather, embellished with decorative stitching to coordinate with fancy stitching on the bridle’s browband and noseband. Found in the hunter and jumping disciplines, fancy stitching (as opposed to plain styling) is a rider’s preference on how the styling complements a horse’s face.
• Rubber reins with a pebble-like texture on both sides provide grip in all weathers; they’re a favorite for cross-country riders, jumpers and trail riders. Rainbow rubber reins have segmented coloring that can be a useful visual aid for riders learning to maintain rein lengths; they’re a favorite of riding instructors.
• Rubber-lined reins feature a thin layer of textural, grippy rubber on one side and supple leather or synthetic material on the other side. They often have hand stops to provide extra hold. This type of rein is popular with dressage riders and event riders.
• Web rubber reins, also commonly used with dressage bridles, may be made out of cotton-like webbing or grippy synthetic webbing with hand stops.
• Curb reins, used with Weymouth and Pelham bits, attach to a ring at the lower end of the bit’s shank. When a curb rein aid is used, the leverage on the shank of the bit travels up to the horse’s poll.

Reins attach to bit rings with either hook stud closures or buckle ends. Riders generally choose the type of rein closure to match the closures on the cheek pieces of their bridle.

Rein Widths & Lengths
Snaffle bit reins come in 5/8" and 3/4" widths. Curb reins are 1/2" wide to allow a rider to distinguish it from the snaffle rein by feel.

Reins come in a variety of lengths, typically 48" for ponies, 52" for cobs or small horses, 54" for average sized horses and 60" for oversize horses. When ordering a bridle that includes reins, check the bridle size chart for rein length as they vary by manufacturer.

Rein Stops
Some reins come with leather or rubber rein stops intended to be used with a running martingale or other training aid. Rein stops help prevent the attachment from becoming entangled with or interfering with the bit rings. They can be removed if not needed.

Overview of English Bridles

Bridle types vary in function and design within the English riding disciplines. The three main types of English bridles include the snaffle bridle, Weymouth bridle (or double bridle or full bridle) and bitless bridle. To browse our entire collection of English bridles, click here.


Snaffle Bridle

The snaffle bridle is the most commonly used bridle because of its versatility and functionality. It is typically used in starting young horses, trail riding, in all of the sport horse disciplines —hunter, jumper, dressage and eventing— and in fox hunting. A snaffle bridle consists of the many types of single snaffle bits, such as eggbutt, loose ring, or D-ring snaffle, a single set of reins attached to that bit, and any of a number of types of noseband or caveson. These include:

• The Standard Caveson
• Flash Noseband
• Crank Noseband
• Drop Noseband
• Figure-8 or Grackle

A snaffle bridle works through pressure— pressure from the bit as it applies to the bars and corners of the horse’s mouth, lips, tongue and palate, and pressure from the bridle as it applies to the horse’s poll and nasal bone.

In an English snaffle bridle, the noseband keeps the horse’s jaws aligned and prevents the horse from opening its mouth wide enough to avoid the bit and rein aids. When adjusted properly— not too tightly or too loosely —the noseband also transfers some of the bit pressure from the bars of the horse’s mouth to the nasal bone. A noseband also provides a place for a standing martingale, if used, to attach. The type of noseband or caveson that is allowed and designed to be used as part of a snaffle bridle varies slightly according to the English riding discipline. For example, a simple caveson is the only type allowed in the hunter equitation ring, while a dressage rider commonly chooses a flash noseband. Jumpers and cross country riders may choose to use a Figure-8 noseband rather than a flash, as the design allows extra room for the horse’s nostrils to expand while working.

Both the type of bit and the type of noseband impact the functionality of the bridle. In addition, a horse’s particular needs may vary depending on its activity. For this reason, some riders have a snaffle bridle and bit combination for ring work, and then another snaffle bridle and bit for riding a cross country course.

Styling on snaffle bridles begins with the color of the leather. Black remains the current trend for dressage riders. The appearance of a dressage bridle is classically understated and simple as can be seen in the Dover Saddlery Premier Classic Dressage Bridle. Comfort features, such as soft padding on the noseband, browband and crownpiece, are usually hidden from view. Some color or sparkle is occasionally added to a dressage bridle through the use of subtle, contrasting padding or piping on the noseband and browband, or through the use of a browband embellished with crystals, simple metal insets, or beads.

Traditional shades of brown leather appeal to those riding in the hunter or jumper rings, cross country and fox hunting. These bridles are classically styled and understated as well, and innovations designed for the ultimate comfort of the horse are usually tastefully discreet, as illustrated in the Dover Saddlery Premier Figure 8 Bridle. Hunter, jumper and cross country riders are generally free to choose styling of their bridle based on how to best flatter his or her horse’s appearance. However, browbands that are embellished with crystals are not allowed for use in the hunters or hunt seat equitation division. Although not specifically required, snaffle bridles for fox hunting are typically very plain and feature wide, flat nosebands, as can be seen on the Dover Saddlery Premier Hunt Bridle.

Snaffle bridles are available in rich brown colors to coordinate with the many colors of brown saddles, and in plain leather, with raised panels or fancy stitching. For information on coordinating shades of brown leather tack, refer to the Guide to Matching Brown Leather.

Tip: Check the Rules
Riders planning to compete are urged to consult the United States Equestrian Federation Rule Book for guidelines on tack usage. Riders participating in a fox hunt are encouraged to consult the governing rules of etiquette for the specific hunt club to learn of any required tack appointments.


Weymouth Bridle

Also called a double bridle or full bridle, the Weymouth bridle can be spotted on horses training in the upper levels of dressage. The double bridle has two bits— a Weymouth or curb bit, and a bradoon —and two sets of reins. A curb bit has a non-jointed mouthpiece, usually with a port that allows room for the horse’s tongue, a curb chain that exerts pressure under the chin, and shanks that allow a leverage action. A narrow curb rein is connected to a ring at the lower end of the shank. When a rein aid is used, the leverage on the shank of the bit travels up to the horse’s poll. A bradoon is a type of snaffle bit that is thinner in diameter than a standard snaffle bit and has smaller rings to prevent interference with the shanks of the curb bit. To assist the rider in identifying the reins by feel, the snaffle rein, which attaches to the rings of the bradoon, is usually wider or of a different style than the curb rein.

Styling of the Weymouth bridle for the dressage ring typically includes black leather to coordinate with black dressage saddles. The noseband of a full bridle, to allow room for the curb bit to function, does not have a flash. However, a crank closure is often used today. As with the snaffle bridle for dressage, this type of bridle is understated and classic in appearance, with any subtle embellishment included only on the browband and occasionally the noseband through subtle piping or padding. Comfort features are discreet.


Bitless Bridles

Bitless bridles rely on pressure on key areas of the horse’s head without the use of a bit in the horse’s mouth. A rider or trainer may choose to use a bitless bridle on a horse for many reasons. It might be used temporarily for the retraining of a horse that has been ridden by a heavy-handed rider or has suffered a mouth injury. It might be used because a horse has dental issues or difficulties tolerating a bit to such an extent that behavioral issues developed. Other riders choose to use a bitless bridle for the overall comfort of the horse.

Bitless bridles are developed and offered as a complete unit. Some hackamores such as the Herm Sprenger Short Shank Hackamore and the Hackamore Noseband, can be attached to the cheek pieces of a snaffle bridle to replace both the noseband and bit to create a bitless bridle. Additionally, the Rambo Micklem Original Multibridle may be used without a bit.

Tip: If you plan to show with a bitless bridle, check the competition’s governing rule book. Bitless bridles are not always permitted for use.


A Note About Reins

Most bridles come with reins that are appropriately styled to match the look and purpose of the bridle, for example an Amigo Event Bridle includes rubber reins that are designed to provide durable grip in all weathers for cross country riders. Laced reins, which provide both grip and attractive, traditional styling, generally accompany hunter bridles. Reins with leather hand stops most often accompany dressage bridles, and they may be made out of webbing or leather. Some reins have rubber rein stops that are intended to be used with a running martingale and can be purchased separately, however they typically accompany select Figure 8 or flash bridles that may be used by jumpers and eventers. English reins are available in all sorts of styles and widths to suit your individual preferences.

Tip: Inspect your reins during regular cleaning. Reins should always be replaced if the stitching begins to fray, if any lacing begins to loosen, or if the closures become compromised.


Related Articles:
How to Measure for a Bridle
How to Measure for a Bit
How to Adjust a Snaffle Bridle
How to Fit a Halter
Types of Halters
Quick Reference Guide to Leather Colors

How to Measure for a Bridle

Bridles from various manufacturers will fit your horse differently, and your horse's own particular conformation may make one bridle more comfortable for him to wear than another. Here are some considerations to bear in mind as you measure for and choose a bridle.

Snaffle bridles are available in four main sizes: pony, cob, full, and oversize. If you’re shopping for a bridle and you’re unsure of your horse’s size, you can estimate the required size based on your horse’s halter size. For example, if he fits perfectly into a full or regular horse sized halter, he will probably fit a full-sized bridle. To shop our entire selection of English bridles online, click here.

Another alternative is to borrow a bridle to try on your horse, and choose your new bridle depending on how the borrowed one fits. For example, if you borrow a full-sized bridle and it is too big when adjusted, choose a cob sized bridle. For help adjusting the bridle, refer to the topic, How to Adjust a Snaffle Bridle.

If neither of these methods are an option, you can measure your horse for a bridle using a soft fabric measuring tape with inch increments, and compare your measurements to the bridle specifications.

Refer to the illustration for help identifying the bridle parts to measure.




1. Crownpiece

Measure the length of crownpiece (with cheek pieces) you require. Measure from one corner of your horse’s mouth, over the poll, to the other corner of his mouth.


2. Browband

Measure the length of browband you require. Measure from the back edge of the horse’s ear, around his forehead, to the back edge of his other ear.


3. Noseband

Measure the length of noseband you require. Measure around your horse’s muzzle at a point about one inch below his cheekbones.


4. Throat Latch

Measure the length of throatlatch you require. Measure from the back of your horse’s ear, under his throat, to the back of his other ear.


Tip: Leather bridle parts may stretch slightly over time with use and conditioning. Factor possible slight stretching into your sizing decision as you select a bridle so that you can be sure it won't become too big for your horse.


Note: Most bridles come with reins that are styled to match the bridle. A variety of reins in brown and black, and different widths are sold separately. If you would like to have an extra set of reins on hand, or if you prefer a style that is different from the kind that came with your bridle, you’ll find plenty of reins to choose from. Consider these types:

• Traditional Laced Reins
• Plain Reins
• Web Reins
• Rubber Reins
• Rubber-lined Reins

Helpful Tips:

Bear in mind that some bridle manufacturers, particularly German and French makers, produce roomier bridles than others. The difference in size may mean that if you have a horse that fits on the smaller end of full size, you may be able to move down to a cob size. Conversely, if your horse is wavering between full and oversized, you can most likely stick with a full size in a German or French made bridle.

Also, horses themselves present challenges due to breed-specific conformation and for this reason additional bridle pieces are available. For example, many Morgans have short faces that lead one to select a cob size bridle, but their wide foreheads then require a full-sized browband. Likewise, Quarter Horses typically have foundation-type heads— wide at the top but with a narrow, refined nose. It can be difficult to fit this type of Quarter Horse into either a standard full or cob bridle. Click here to shop browbands and bridle parts individually.

How to Measure for a Bit

Here are some general guidelines for finding the correct size bit for your horse or pony. To shop our entire selection of English bits online, click here. To find the right sized bit, you should consider both the length of the mouthpiece and the width of the mouthpiece in combination with the conformation of your horse’s mouth.

Eggbutt Bit

Double Jointed Loose Ring Bit

Hunter D Ring Bit

Full Cheek Bit

Elevator Bit

Kimberwicke Bit

Pelham Bit

Length of the Mouthpiece

The length of the bit corresponds to the width of your horse’s mouth. This measurement is usually provided in inches and fractions of an inch, such as 5" or 5 1⁄2".

When attached to an appropriately adjusted bridle, the bit should rest comfortably at the corners of your horse’s mouth. In general, the bit rings should not press very hard against the horse’s face, indicating that the length is too short. A bit that is too short may pinch the sensitive corners of the horse’s mouth.



A side view of the eggbutt snaffle bit.



An eggbutt snaffle bit resting comfortably at the corners of the horse’s mouth.

Conversely, if you see one-half inch or more of the mouthpiece on each side between the lips and the bit rings, the bit is too long. A bit that is too long can slip sideways in the horse’s mouth, becoming ineffective and causing soreness.

The specific type of bit you choose will slightly influence the desirable bit length. A full cheek snaffle, Pelham or elevator bit should fit snugly next to the horse’s cheek, but should not squeeze or pinch.

For a loose ring snaffle or any bit with moveable rings, make sure that the horse’s lips completely clear the bit ring holes by 1/8 inch on each side. Otherwise, the horse’s skin can become pinched into the holes as the action of the loose ring works with the rein.



The loose ring bit is sized so that the horse’s lip clears the hole where the loose ring slides to prevent pinching.

Rubber bit guards can be used with loose ring bits to prevent pinching, but if you plan to compete with them, check with the governing body of your competition to be sure that their use is allowed. For example, bit guards are strictly forbidden in recognized dressage competitions and in dressage tests that are part of sanctioned and unsanctioned three-phase events. On the other hand, bit guards are allowed in show jumping classes.

You can measure your horse’s mouth to determine the length of bit required in two ways. The easiest way is to use a Bit Sizer, which is a simple and inexpensive plastic measuring device that slides into the horse’s mouth. Inch increments correspond directly to bit sizes, and you take the reading just as you would using a ruler. As described previously, depending on the type of bit you’re selecting you may want to add 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch to the bit sizer measurement.



Using a bit sizer

Alternatively, you can use a piece of string in place of a commercial bit sizer if your horse will cooperate. Mark the spots on the string that meet the corners of the horse’s mouth, then lay the string against a ruler to obtain your bit length measurement. Again consider the type of bit you’re selecting and whether you should add a bit of length to the measurement.


Width of a Mouthpiece



The width of a bit refers to its circumference at the widest part of the mouthpiece. This measurement may be in either inches or in millimeters. For most horses, the thinner the bit, the more severe its action on the horse’s mouth. This is because the pressure from the bit is exerted on a narrower surface.

Similarly, in general, the thicker the bit, the more gentle its action on the horse’s mouth because the pressure is distributed over a wider surface. However, a qualification to this guideline is that the bit cannot be too thick in relation to the space in the horse’s mouth to accommodate it. The height of the palate (roof of the mouth) in combination with the thickness of the tongue determines the amount of space available for the bit. If the bit is too thick, it will put constant pressure on the horse’s mouth, and could even make swallowing difficult. Always consider the conformation of a horse’s mouth when choosing bit width.

Your equine dentist, veterinarian or a knowledgeable trainer can help you determine whether your horse’s palate is normal or high, which could allow for a thicker bit to be used, or very low, which could reduce the thickness of the bit that may be used. You can usually identify the conformation of the horse’s tongue by prying open the side of the lips. A small or average sized tongue lies below or level with the bars of the mouth. A thick tongue rises above the bars or spills over the bars and between the teeth.


Should I Borrow a Bit from a Friend?

Borrowing a bit from a friend can be a useful tool for determining a type or size of bit to purchase. However, you should never put a used bit in your horse’s mouth without sterilizing it first.

The easiest way to sterilize a bit is to run it through a dishwasher cycle that supplies hot water at a 180 degree temperature.

Another method is to scrub all aspects of the bit with a soft toothbrush and a surgical scrub. Let the solution remain on the bit for 15 minutes, then rinse cleanly. Next, submerse the bit in a solution of one teaspoon bleach to one quart of water. Let the bit sit in the solution for 15 minutes, and then rinse it clean and dry thoroughly.

Note: Some bits made of combined metals, plastics, or rubber will discolor during sterilization.